www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
MacLeodova nová kniha Make or break
In memoriam z horolezeckých deníků předsedy ČHS Zdeňka Hrubého
Vltavská žula

Competitions
Padání (24.04)
26. 4. 2015 - PÍSECKÝ PAVOUK (26.04)
3. nominační závod (23.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
16.Vopatová 10622
17.Zedek 10603
18.Lank 10582
Bouldry:
16.Štěpánek 9384
17.Mlejnek 9375
18.Fiala 9306
Hory:
14.Jansa 2582
15.Štalmach 2560
16.Daněk 2436

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3855 lezců
508220 cest
Nové přelezy:
Hary Lotr 8A
Californic 8A
Sloní Pilí 9
Cuk 9
Hrob Nezná 7C+
Tomb Rider 8A+
Das Dritte 9/9+
Analogová 7C
El Marrano 7C
Temný Rití 7C+

Indoors
Sportovní hala PF UJEP - Ústí nad Labem
BalvanBoulder - Horažďovice
A-ProSystem s.r.o. - Most

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poštovní - Ostrava 1
bart´s port - Praha 2
HUDYsport - Zlín

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Interview with Adam Ondra about Golpe de Estado

Every time Adam Ondra has climbed a difficult route, I thought that it would be worthwhile to do an interview. But it happens very often:) So how was it this time with "Golpe de Estado - Adam's first-9b, which he climbed two weeks ago in Siurana?

When did you decide that you were going to try "Golpe de Estado
Basically, I made it a goal after „Marina Superstar“, just to compared the difficulty. This mission was long and difficult, but it paid off.

You needed 29 attempts to repeat the line. It indicates that this route is  “hardcore"! What gave you the hardest time... stamina, bouldery cruxes…
The biggest problem for me were the typically long „Sharma“ moves.  These are dynamic reaches when one never knows. Even the strongest climber is not sure and easily misses the hold he is aiming for: the two-finger pocket or crimp. You have to just jump confident and hope that you stay on the rock.



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Spain

foto Pete O´Donovan


Could you describe Golpe de Estado
There is an easy start, then 4 meters of quite hard climbing, a poor rest in the hole, and then comes the 4 meter crux, which is finished with a jump (or long move), where you feel that your hands will pull apart. Then it comes a bad rest again (it could be 9a+), and than there is a finish of Estado Critico (this part alone is probably hard 8c). Overall it is about 35 or 40 meters of climbing.

I don’t know Spanish, but the translation I have for Golpe de Estado is a coup. Do you know if Chris Sharma and Daily Ojeda are getting ready for something in Spain? Do you know anything about this?
I do not know if they are getting ready for something, but I think the name  symbolizes the fighting spirit and in this route you must give it everything. Otherwise, Chris and Daila should be already in the U.S. (in Red River Gorge) and they will return in May.


sectors Siuranella central-left and-right El Patio

foto by Eva Ondrová


Golpe de estado was freed by Chris Sharma at the end of 2008. The route goes via a direct start to Estado critico.  As always Chris hesitated with a grade, than he proposed 9b, which he compares to the Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain in the U.S. Cedric Lachat broke the resting hold in Estado Critico this winter, which is the first part of the Golpe de Estado. First, I wonder what it looks like such a resting hold in 9b and then, if the breaking made a such a different in a grade

Just to clarify a bit. The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder, from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even higher.
If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it's surely at least 9b.

I read that your ascents were accompanied by strong wind and freezing weather, for which you once fell just below the chain. It must be mentally demanding. How do you get over it?
Not well. I have to believe, but sometimes it is really difficult. I was probably more nervous now than at the comps, where at least I do not know a route. Here I know it very well and I always have a few moves, which I afraid of and I afraid of them even in a dream.

What come on your mind after the climb?
Mix of relief and great joy. Freedom and relief.

A  month ago you injured your  finger in Margalef in route Demencia senil 9a+ .  Will you avoid routes with one or two-finger pockets now and is your season in Frankenjura compromised?
I definitely won’t miss this season in the Frankenjura. It is not a finger pockets as a finger pockets. In hard routes in Frankenjura the holds are usually so small and you usually take them more like a small crimp, which is safer for tendon. Besides that, there are not usually in sequence. In Margalef they are all pockets bigger than phalanx, far from each other and without footholds.


Siurana

foto by Eva Ondrová


Do you have still enough routes in Frankenjura?
From routes harder than 9a, there is only one :-( But a drill is already impatient.

There is a list unrepeated 9b: Akira, Es Pontas, Jumbo Love, Delincuente Natural, and Neanderthal. Are some of them already on your list?
It will keep it to myself. Place your bets.



Adam Ondra

foto Pete O´Donovan



The WC in lead are starting in July and last until November. Will you participate in all circuit and do you prepare yourself for comps?
I plan to participate in all comps in lead and in 5 in the boulder WC (7 total, the ranking counts 5). Bouldering season is short. It takes basically from mid May to early July, except for one comp in Munich in early August, so it can reasonably handle. Mainly on boulders I must improve climbing on slopers and double dynos.

I will not pry anymore. Thank you for the interview, I keep my fingers crossed for the next competition season and climbing, and especially no more injuries!

by Simona Ulmonova



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček




Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček



Resources:
bernartwood.cz



Simona    [edit] 07:32 26.03.2010Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 English version09:49:06 26.03.2010
Thanks for the translation :) Great talent :)
reply 

 Incredible21:44:58 26.03.2010
Nice inteview.
Stevereply 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Ekosystém, 8+
 Routes:
All routes (101350)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Rigolette SX 3 Sistiana
Rigolette DX 3 Sistiana
Aria Nuova 6a Sistiana
Vnitřní Komín IV Drábovna
Přeskok 2 Drábovna
Latest comments:
Bezzubá Hrana V Prachov
Srazová Cesta 6- Roviště
Beta Centauri 9+ Žleby
Bezzubá Hrana V Prachov
Vse VIIIc Labák - Levý Břeh

 New in discussion:
Climbing friends for may | Re: Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for new friends! | Climbing in Czech Republic | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for a long lost friend! | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Bouldering Prague Area |

 Latest comments:
2014 Moncler : | Fake Rolex Watches and replica omega watches for Men and Women | Omega speedmaster, hb-sia | 316391-006 Nike Air Max Ltd II White Black Blue - $80.00 : Profe | Buy Pandora Rings US Online:Find genuine online stockists for Pa | Toms Earthwise Shiraz Men's Vegan Classics Shoes - $30.00 : Prof | John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone |

 Hot:
Festak 2011 (1)
New York Times video: Czech Towers Jumping (1)
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)
Adam's new hard route (1)
Czech mountaineer and politician Pavel Bem on K2 (1)

 New in advertising:
Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Dodo's Delight
 - VIDEO: Chris Sharma on El bon combat, ~9b/+
 - Three Northumberland 8A's in a day for Sebastian Halenke
 - 4th female ascent of Era Vella, 9a, by Anak Verhoeven
 - New 8b+ link-up at Malham: The Terminator
 - Major Rockfall on Squamish Chief
 - Yasha and Minerva, two ~8B+'s in a day by Dai Koyamada + video
 - Everest Climbers Scammed Out of Thousands in Himalaya
 - NEWSFLASH: Megalopa 8c+ for Oli Grounsell
 - Ronnie Dickson: First above-knee amputee to climb V10/7C+
 - VIDEO: DMM in Bornholm
 - Orochi, ~8C, by Toshi Takeuchi
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Ascension
 - Unclimbed Grit? Stunning new 7C+ at Great Wolfrey
 - Fontainebleau wrap up
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.