www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Best of Arco
Vychází nová kniha o lezení na písku
Monte Baldo Rock

Competitions
Lokalblok Bouldering Session V (06.05)
Beal petrohradské padání (30.05)
Boulder Open Air (07.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
2."Fido" 11550
3.Oliva 11204
4.Šindel 11084
Bouldry:
2.Jungling 10600
3.Stráník 10500
4.Strnad 10300
Hory:
23.Eliáš 1845
24.Mynarčík 1835
25. 1809

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3596 lezců
451795 cest
Nové přelezy:
Ocelový Ko 8A+
Progresive 7b
Lucky Stri 7b
Dala 8+/9-
Buchnerpfe 9-
Liebe Ohne 9
Hitchhike 9/9+
Riadený Šm 9+
Krátká Kře 9+
La Probosc 7c

Indoors
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
SAUNA - Plzeň
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň

Shops
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Interview with Adam Ondra about Golpe de Estado

Every time Adam Ondra has climbed a difficult route, I thought that it would be worthwhile to do an interview. But it happens very often:) So how was it this time with "Golpe de Estado - Adam's first-9b, which he climbed two weeks ago in Siurana?

When did you decide that you were going to try "Golpe de Estado
Basically, I made it a goal after „Marina Superstar“, just to compared the difficulty. This mission was long and difficult, but it paid off.

You needed 29 attempts to repeat the line. It indicates that this route is  “hardcore"! What gave you the hardest time... stamina, bouldery cruxes…
The biggest problem for me were the typically long „Sharma“ moves.  These are dynamic reaches when one never knows. Even the strongest climber is not sure and easily misses the hold he is aiming for: the two-finger pocket or crimp. You have to just jump confident and hope that you stay on the rock.



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Spain

foto Pete O´Donovan


Could you describe Golpe de Estado
There is an easy start, then 4 meters of quite hard climbing, a poor rest in the hole, and then comes the 4 meter crux, which is finished with a jump (or long move), where you feel that your hands will pull apart. Then it comes a bad rest again (it could be 9a+), and than there is a finish of Estado Critico (this part alone is probably hard 8c). Overall it is about 35 or 40 meters of climbing.

I don’t know Spanish, but the translation I have for Golpe de Estado is a coup. Do you know if Chris Sharma and Daily Ojeda are getting ready for something in Spain? Do you know anything about this?
I do not know if they are getting ready for something, but I think the name  symbolizes the fighting spirit and in this route you must give it everything. Otherwise, Chris and Daila should be already in the U.S. (in Red River Gorge) and they will return in May.


sectors Siuranella central-left and-right El Patio

foto by Eva Ondrová


Golpe de estado was freed by Chris Sharma at the end of 2008. The route goes via a direct start to Estado critico.  As always Chris hesitated with a grade, than he proposed 9b, which he compares to the Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain in the U.S. Cedric Lachat broke the resting hold in Estado Critico this winter, which is the first part of the Golpe de Estado. First, I wonder what it looks like such a resting hold in 9b and then, if the breaking made a such a different in a grade

Just to clarify a bit. The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder, from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even higher.
If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it's surely at least 9b.

I read that your ascents were accompanied by strong wind and freezing weather, for which you once fell just below the chain. It must be mentally demanding. How do you get over it?
Not well. I have to believe, but sometimes it is really difficult. I was probably more nervous now than at the comps, where at least I do not know a route. Here I know it very well and I always have a few moves, which I afraid of and I afraid of them even in a dream.

What come on your mind after the climb?
Mix of relief and great joy. Freedom and relief.

A  month ago you injured your  finger in Margalef in route Demencia senil 9a+ .  Will you avoid routes with one or two-finger pockets now and is your season in Frankenjura compromised?
I definitely won’t miss this season in the Frankenjura. It is not a finger pockets as a finger pockets. In hard routes in Frankenjura the holds are usually so small and you usually take them more like a small crimp, which is safer for tendon. Besides that, there are not usually in sequence. In Margalef they are all pockets bigger than phalanx, far from each other and without footholds.


Siurana

foto by Eva Ondrová


Do you have still enough routes in Frankenjura?
From routes harder than 9a, there is only one :-( But a drill is already impatient.

There is a list unrepeated 9b: Akira, Es Pontas, Jumbo Love, Delincuente Natural, and Neanderthal. Are some of them already on your list?
It will keep it to myself. Place your bets.



Adam Ondra

foto Pete O´Donovan



The WC in lead are starting in July and last until November. Will you participate in all circuit and do you prepare yourself for comps?
I plan to participate in all comps in lead and in 5 in the boulder WC (7 total, the ranking counts 5). Bouldering season is short. It takes basically from mid May to early July, except for one comp in Munich in early August, so it can reasonably handle. Mainly on boulders I must improve climbing on slopers and double dynos.

I will not pry anymore. Thank you for the interview, I keep my fingers crossed for the next competition season and climbing, and especially no more injuries!

by Simona Ulmonova



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček




Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček



Resources:
bernartwood.cz



Simona    [edit] 07:32 26.03.2010Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 English version09:49:06 26.03.2010
Thanks for the translation :) Great talent :)
reply 

 Incredible21:44:58 26.03.2010
Nice inteview.
Stevereply 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Amerikanische Bootschaft
Big Mac, 7+/8-
 Routes:
All routes (93267)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Voie Béatrix 6b+ Presles
Navet Remord 6b St. Egréve
Touffe Zinzin 5c St. Egréve
Detonation Boulevard 7+ Hohe Wand
Progresive Rock 7b Taledos
Latest comments:
Přerovnaná Údolka 7+ Žleby
Přerovnaná Údolka 7+ Žleby
Přerovnaná Údolka 7+ Žleby
Pro Jedno Kvítí Slunce Svítí 8 Lomy Nad Velkou
Pro Jedno Kvítí Slunce Svítí 8 Lomy Nad Velkou

 New in discussion:
Re: Little America, bolted routes? | Little America, bolted routes? | Bouldering in Petrohrad around Easter | Rock Climbing close to Brno? | LEZENIE ČR | Mr. | Mr. | Climbing partner in Brno | Re: Climbing Partner | Exp and Trekking in Pakistan |

 Latest comments:
Tiffany Bracelets : Tiffany and co outlet, Tiffany jewelry outle | Tiffany & Co Dragonfly Dangle Earrings - $56.00 : cheap tiff | iwc | HUBLOT BIG BANG CAPPUCCINO 301.CB.1001.RX - $169.00 : replica w | Replica Cartier Swiss-TORTUE series WA5072W9 Ms. mechanical watc | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions |

 Hot:
PADani - open air bouldering competiton in Petrohrad, CZE (3)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - MINI INTERVIEW: MaDMAn 2nd Ascent for Nige Kershaw
 - 3rd Ascent of Ugly, E8/XXS, for Benno Wagner
 - Ethan Walker Climbs Two 8B+'s
 - The Jimmy Webb update
 - VIDEO: Alex Megos in Frankenjura
 - 12 Sherpas Killed on Everest as Serac Collapses
 - FRI NIGHT VID: The Positron Traverse V3 - With One Leg
 - NEWSFLASH: Neil Mawson Climbs Parthian Shot
 - Rare Lichen, E9, for Nathan Lee & Oli Grounsell
 - New Newsletter for UKC & UKH
 - Multiple 8B Boulders in Font and Albarracin for Ned Feehally
 - Ed Hamer Takes First Place at Kendal Wall Competition
 - Interview: The Story of two worlds and Big Kat by Hojer
 - FRIDAY NIGHT VID: Stone Kingdom Ep. 4
 - Jimmy Webb climbs The Understanding, 8C
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.