www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Nejkrásnější cesty na písku
Koniec Pavúkov v Tatrách
Himálaj a Karakorum - Československé a České prvovýstupy

Competitions
Autocolor BOULDER GAMES LIGA (29.04)
Sambar Kids Cup (30.04)
SP Chongqing 2016 (30.04)

Ranking
Cesty:
34.Zaoral 9922
35.Svobodová 9890
36.Novák 9850
Bouldry:
34.Rychtrmoc 8831
35.Jančar 8825
36.Pochman 8750
Hory:
21.Cibulka 2607
22.Polák 2432
23.Zdráhal 2424

Results
SP Kazo 2016 (23.04)
Evropský pohár mládeže (16.04)
Jeseník Cup (16.04)

Diary
4062 lezců
567091 cest
Nové přelezy:
Mozartovy 7C
PHX 7B+
Pixiebob 7C
Wrestler 7C
Zjizvená T 7C
Pašeráci D 7C
Sámova Ces 10-
Kudla Do Z 9
Winterpleš 7C+/8A
Tabula Ras 7c+

Indoors
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Boulder Bar - Praha 7

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Interview with Adam Ondra about Golpe de Estado

Every time Adam Ondra has climbed a difficult route, I thought that it would be worthwhile to do an interview. But it happens very often:) So how was it this time with "Golpe de Estado - Adam's first-9b, which he climbed two weeks ago in Siurana?

When did you decide that you were going to try "Golpe de Estado
Basically, I made it a goal after „Marina Superstar“, just to compared the difficulty. This mission was long and difficult, but it paid off.

You needed 29 attempts to repeat the line. It indicates that this route is  “hardcore"! What gave you the hardest time... stamina, bouldery cruxes…
The biggest problem for me were the typically long „Sharma“ moves.  These are dynamic reaches when one never knows. Even the strongest climber is not sure and easily misses the hold he is aiming for: the two-finger pocket or crimp. You have to just jump confident and hope that you stay on the rock.



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Spain

foto Pete O´Donovan


Could you describe Golpe de Estado
There is an easy start, then 4 meters of quite hard climbing, a poor rest in the hole, and then comes the 4 meter crux, which is finished with a jump (or long move), where you feel that your hands will pull apart. Then it comes a bad rest again (it could be 9a+), and than there is a finish of Estado Critico (this part alone is probably hard 8c). Overall it is about 35 or 40 meters of climbing.

I don’t know Spanish, but the translation I have for Golpe de Estado is a coup. Do you know if Chris Sharma and Daily Ojeda are getting ready for something in Spain? Do you know anything about this?
I do not know if they are getting ready for something, but I think the name  symbolizes the fighting spirit and in this route you must give it everything. Otherwise, Chris and Daila should be already in the U.S. (in Red River Gorge) and they will return in May.


sectors Siuranella central-left and-right El Patio

foto by Eva Ondrová


Golpe de estado was freed by Chris Sharma at the end of 2008. The route goes via a direct start to Estado critico.  As always Chris hesitated with a grade, than he proposed 9b, which he compares to the Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain in the U.S. Cedric Lachat broke the resting hold in Estado Critico this winter, which is the first part of the Golpe de Estado. First, I wonder what it looks like such a resting hold in 9b and then, if the breaking made a such a different in a grade

Just to clarify a bit. The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder, from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even higher.
If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it's surely at least 9b.

I read that your ascents were accompanied by strong wind and freezing weather, for which you once fell just below the chain. It must be mentally demanding. How do you get over it?
Not well. I have to believe, but sometimes it is really difficult. I was probably more nervous now than at the comps, where at least I do not know a route. Here I know it very well and I always have a few moves, which I afraid of and I afraid of them even in a dream.

What come on your mind after the climb?
Mix of relief and great joy. Freedom and relief.

A  month ago you injured your  finger in Margalef in route Demencia senil 9a+ .  Will you avoid routes with one or two-finger pockets now and is your season in Frankenjura compromised?
I definitely won’t miss this season in the Frankenjura. It is not a finger pockets as a finger pockets. In hard routes in Frankenjura the holds are usually so small and you usually take them more like a small crimp, which is safer for tendon. Besides that, there are not usually in sequence. In Margalef they are all pockets bigger than phalanx, far from each other and without footholds.


Siurana

foto by Eva Ondrová


Do you have still enough routes in Frankenjura?
From routes harder than 9a, there is only one :-( But a drill is already impatient.

There is a list unrepeated 9b: Akira, Es Pontas, Jumbo Love, Delincuente Natural, and Neanderthal. Are some of them already on your list?
It will keep it to myself. Place your bets.



Adam Ondra

foto Pete O´Donovan



The WC in lead are starting in July and last until November. Will you participate in all circuit and do you prepare yourself for comps?
I plan to participate in all comps in lead and in 5 in the boulder WC (7 total, the ranking counts 5). Bouldering season is short. It takes basically from mid May to early July, except for one comp in Munich in early August, so it can reasonably handle. Mainly on boulders I must improve climbing on slopers and double dynos.

I will not pry anymore. Thank you for the interview, I keep my fingers crossed for the next competition season and climbing, and especially no more injuries!

by Simona Ulmonova



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček



Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček




Adam Ondra- Golpe de Estado 9b, Siurana, Španělsko

foto Petr Pavlíček



Resources:
bernartwood.cz



Simona    [edit] 07:32 26.03.2010Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 English version09:49:06 26.03.2010
Thanks for the translation :) Great talent :)
reply 

 Incredible21:44:58 26.03.2010
Nice inteview.
Stevereply 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

 Routes:
All routes (109311)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Moulin à Vent 5B Fontainebleau
La Lunule 5A Fontainebleau
Ardi Beltza 6b+ Siurana
Slíbená Cesta 4- Hromnická Plotna
Hromy A Blesky 5 Hromnická Plotna
Latest comments:
Tabula Rasa 7c+ Súľov
Opičí Traverz 7A+ Velký Kámen
Respekt 10- Frankenjura
Předehra 5+ Komínky
Opičí Traverz 7A+ Velký Kámen

 New in discussion:
Climbing partner Prague | drytooling in CZ | Re: Climbing in Petrohrad | Climbing in Petrohrad | Looking for new friends, travel and sport buddies | Moving to Ceske Budejovice | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for climbing partner in Brno | Mr. | Ostry Stit - lost Cam Bd C3 yellow (motykova cesta) |

 Latest comments:
Iwc Cousteau Divers mirror 1:1 replica Watch Working Chronograph | cheap Classic Air Force 1 25th Low Men Shoes Yellow White on... | Nike Air Max, Mens Nike Air Max 90 | John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? |

 Hot:
Festak 2011 (1)
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)
Lynn Hill in Prague (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - Papichulo, 9a+, by Said Belhaj
 - Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan
 - New 12-Skyhook E9 by James McHaffie: House of Talons
 - VIDEO: The Fine line
 - The Quarryman Groove by Caroline Ciavaldini
 - Alex Megos hits Sweden
 - Live: Round 2 of IFSC Boulder World Cup - Sunday 24th April
 - VIDEO: Jerry's cellar back in the day
 - VIDEO: From shallow waters to Riverbed, ~8B+, by Dave MacLeod
 - 1 Million Visits for UKC in March 2016
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Wujastyk and Whittaker in Waterval Boven, South Africa
 - The Quarryman E8 7a for James Pearson
 - VIDEO: 'Sheffield Climbers' - Archive Footage
 - VIDEO: Anak Verhoeven climbs Ma belle ma muse, 8c+/9a, and le Bronx, 8c+
 - IFSC Boulder World Cup Meiringen: Report
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.